LFW Day One: Horace, Karen Brost – Plus, Sun Shocker!
Karen Brost LFW S/S 09
Karen Brost LFW S/S 09

The sky was clear, the time to end the wait for our bi-annual fix of catwalk chaos was near and the fashionistas were smiling. South Kensington became our version of heaven today as London Fashion Week began, benefiting from a surprise appearance from one of the rarest of London’s exhibitors – the ever-elusive Sunshine…

As excited as I was, I just couldn’t get out of bed too early on a Sunday morning. So my love of slumber over style won perhaps for the first time ever as I slept through the Paul Costelloe, Caroline Charles, Charles Anastase and Ossie Clark shows. I did make it to Horace and Karen Brost – and they almost made it worth missing a roast.

First things first – the crowds. The audience at a fashion show is (thankfully) usually very interesting – even if the collection isn’t. At the Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, I was disturbed to see shop-stickers still stuck on some shoe-soles (you really should know better by now) but equally elated to see that kranky, British creativity that’s always showcased by those attending LFW.

Horace was created seven years ago by friends Adam Entwisle and Emma Hales. Over that time they’ve gained a fan base with Kate Moss and Agness Deyn at the foundation. They have a studio in Bali and in London and their designs reflect the cultures inherent in both locations. Certainly unique in their style and vision, this season’s theme was ‘Desert Survivor’. Adam Entwistle described the overall look as ‘a desert survivor meeting a post apocalyptic counterpart’. Well, that may very well be – but some of the duo’s dresses were so stunning, the post-apocalypse world looks set to have some pretty wild parties.

My favourite piece was the sheer, wrap-around, poncho-inspired LBD with Bedouin-style details. If that’s survival wear – bring on the bunker.

There was a Horace homage to the humble hoodie, as it appeared in a thin-knit, transparent-patches version. High-waist leather trousers held up by chunky, studded leather belts which dangled like daunting weapons are something that might not be trend-setting, but made for a fun show. And the raw edginess was distilled somewhat in the easily-wearable studded dresses and tight leather trousers. The beautiful crocheted dresses would also be blissful at a beach-party (or in that apocalyptic desert). The leather bows used throughout added a gentile feel to an otherwise aggressive collection which makes no apologies – and nor it should.

Secondly, Karen Brost breezed into the afternoon with her ultra feminine and floaty offerings. There were glimpses of excitement – the large puffed sleeves of a fitted, flower-print top, the playful patterns on a couple of the dresses. This added some fun into something that was undeniably super-sellable, but just a bit ‘done’.

There were white, blue and red tones with nautical influences and plenty of bows - pieces made perfectly for a summer picnic. It was classy and reassuringly old-school British enough to have the front-row buyers smiling broadly. For fashion-forward lovers it was hard to share their joy. However, the sequinned swim-hat style caps and the high-positioned pockets sewn into many of the dresses were highlights of the collection.

It had class, elegance and confidence. But as I left, I just couldn’t help feeling that I’d just seen the high-end high street under the spotlights.

Running home to prepare my party clothes for the PPQ party at Vendome, I was greeted with a flooded flat. Yes, my flat flooded during fashion week. No, I couldn’t possibly explain how many inches my tears added to the water-line. But I will not be defeated. Fashion conquers all.



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3 Comments »
  1. marc eastlake
    8:35 am on September 24th, 2008

    The Skull Caps worn by the models for the Karen Brost show
    were designed and made by Marc Eastlake using
    Swarovski chrystals.

  2. t5m
    9:26 am on October 1st, 2008

    Have a look at the London Fashion Week channel on http://www.t5m.com/london-fashion-week , with some great fashion coverage. We have just finished filming at London Fashion Week and have some inspiring exclusive videos on our site. We have footage of all the catwalk shows and backstage interviews with the designers. The runway shows and interviews with the celebrities are on there too.

  3. DD70
    7:53 pm on March 28th, 2009

    Does anyone know where to buy Horace clothing?

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