Backstage at the fashion shows that have recently taken Milan, New York and London by storm, cosmetics legend, M.A.C., has been busy dressing gorgeous faces and creating looks to complement the glorious couture gowns we have all been oohing and aahing over.

Take, for example, Emilio Pucci’s latest S/S 09 collection, unveiled last Thursday in Milan (see Chic Today’s full report here). The look (left), was ‘inspired by David Bowie but done in neutral tones’, as described by British makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury. The eyes featured the must-have product of the season (see below), the M.A.C. Pro Cream Colour Base in Dark Brown, blended from the lash line diagonally on the inner and outer corners of the eye. Then, Silver Dusk Iridescent/Loose Powder was blended diagonally from the lash line to the brow in the centre of the eyes. Finally, Coffee eye pencil was ticked up and smudged on the outer corners. On the skin, Charlotte buffed on Dark Brown M.A.C Pro Cream Colour Base for a straight, angular contour under the cheekbone and temple. Sculpt and Bone Beige M.A.C. Pro Sculpting Powder was then blended together and diffused over the contours for a soft edge. Pleasureful and Laid Back Blush Creme was blended onto the center of the cheek, whilst Silver Dusk Iridescent/Loose Powder was brushed in a diagonal highlight along the cheeckbone. Honeylove lipstick was patted onto the lips to complete the look.

From NYC, the key makeup buzzwords to emerge from the runways were Coral (right), as seen at Proenza Schouler, Derek Lam and Malandrino, and Messy Makeup, where smudged black kohl reigned supreme at Matthew Williamson and Halston. In the words of Charlotte herself, ‘it’s meant to be a mess – it’s lived-in, effortlessly cool, smudged, rock n’ roll.’ The one product, however, that was in every makeup artists’ hands was M.A.C.’s Cream Colour Base in Pearl. This divinely versatile cream highlighter imparts a shimmering, reflective gleam without any signs of telltale glitter–an absolute must-have for your makeup trousse next season.

Over on the other side of the Atlantic in London, it was quite a different story. Here, runway makeup looks were all about wet Gloss textures (left), with glassy lips taking centre stage at Giles, House of Holland and Nathan Jenden. Shades of Purple and Blue were also a hot favourite of designers from Aquascutum to Temperley. Groomed skin and softer tones were also spotted at Ossie Clark, where makeup artist Sam Byrant described the models as ’soft and sensual – expensive Seventies girls…they’re bohemian but stink of Chanel No. 5.’

Images courtesy of M.A.C.