London Fashion Week has finally hit the Big Smoke. In its 25th year, you would expect some surprises, and you wouldn’t be far from wrong.

We arrived to find a much smaller venue than usual, with the whole tent now shrunk to at least half its former size (a sign of the economic times, perhaps?) Gone too was the complimentary hospitality of previous years, with not a single croissant or fruit basket in sight–the fashion crowd seemed distinctly unimpressed.

The week opened with a brief speech by Harold Tillman, Chairman of the British Fashion Council, who managed to make the crowd grasp by announcing that this season would be the last at the Natural History Museum, and that the fashion pack would be moving to a new home come September–Somerset House.

One tradition that did remain the same from previous years was that Paul Costelloe kicked off the week. Unlike in New York, which exuded a distinctly ‘eighties vibe’ last week, Costelloe transported the crowd back to the Swinging Sixties. Models in cute A-line, thigh skimming smocks trooped the catwalk, accompanied by the infectious sounds of Beyoncé’s ‘Single Ladies’. Various styles of necklines followed, which were predominantly roll necks in slash, round and boat varieties.

Other key pieces included swinging, full shaped coats with stand up, funnel neck collars. Both double and single front buttons featured, although there was a distinct military undertone to details. Although most silhouettes were A-line, there were slightly more forgiving empire lines for curvier figures.

Nearly the entire collection consisted of dresses and coats, signaling a move away from separates and placing a stronger emphasis on simpler dresses and key singular pieces.

The fabric choices were divine, with glorious metallic brocades used for dressy shifts and smart tailored coats. Wool was the other prevalent fabric and was used both felted and left fluffy, making for truly scrumptious winter dressing for the chilly months ahead. The surface details were also exquisite, and included quilting, appliqué flowers and dip dyeing. Zips also featured as a key detail– continuing the trend launched last autumn–with oversized zips appearing on the backs of dresses.

Overall, a truly inspiring collection and one that will be filling quite a few wardrobes this coming season.

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Images courtesy of Londonfashionweek.com/Catwalking.com. Text © Rivkie Baum/Fash-pack.blogspot.com