Borrowing from a mixture of 1940′s Parisian chic and Spanish matadors, Jasper Conran produced an all-black F/W 09-10 collection. There was a distinct negligee influence to the look evoked, which was created with rich silk, organza and chiffon.

Structured crinoline bustles were teamed with structured bodices that were perfectly formed, intricately boned and topstitched. Beautiful lace corsets and bust-high skirts in organza created the most incredible hourglass figures. Tops were so sheer that often only minute, multi-ruffled details were able to hide the models’ modesty. Jackets were incredibly well tailored and cinched at the waist, revealing a host of fluting peplums and bustle sections covered in ruffles. When not combining a 40′s film noir with Spanish style ruffles and capes, Conrad evoked a strong military vibe.

Wool coats featured gorgeous stand up collars and metal button detailing. There were single and double-breasted coats which came in both strong trench styles, with thick pleated bottoms, as well as stunning cropped versions that finished above the waist. There was also a glorious rebel-chic biker jacket with quilt detailing, paired with an all leather leotard–utterly uncharacteristic of Conran, yet truly showstopping.

It was interesting to note there was not a single pair of trousers in the entire collection, although there were some beautifully structured skirt suits. Jackets were cinched at the waist with patent belts, while skirts were structured and panelled to create intricate detailing.

Conran has created a sumptuous and sexual collection which although is rather risqué, it is definitely a hit in my books.

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